lauantai 29. kesäkuuta 2019

Serkhe Kollu 5546 meters in April

On April 19th me, my wife, my brother in law and his friend left La Paz at 5 in the morning aiming to climb the 5546 meters high Serkhe Kollu close to La Paz. It was a Friday and a national holiday. We had rented snow climb equipment for them the day before. This was my second time on this mountain.

We drove to represa Incachaca and took a right there to drive up to 4530 meters on a tiny dirt road that forces the driver (I drove) to concentrate quite intensely. From the top we had to drive down for about 15 minutes to represa Hampaturi, which is at 4270 meters if I´m not wrong. There had been a rockfall, but luckily we were able to drive over the rocks on the road. Then we passed the third and fourth reservoir/represa of the morning, and after maybe an hour and 25 minutes of slow driving we got to the last one close to Serkhe Kollu at 4810 meters of altitude.

The morning was clear and totally calm. I was carrying a thermometer on my backpack, and it was showing about 2 Celsius above zero, but maybe it was too close to me to show the actual air temperature. At about 9 in the morning it got cloudy as we were looking for a spot where to get on the glacier that had steep borders at its low end. But higher we had sunshine and blue skies on our left and dark cloud on the right.



I think it took up to 3,5 hours time elapsed to get to the first glacier. It didn´t rain much during the rainy season, so the mountains are quite bare without much snow. After the first glacier there was a long section of rocky terrain until we got to the second one that leads to the top. The first time I climbed Serkhe Kollu I climbed a much more difficult route on the main face and descended the easier route we were on now. In 2015 there was much snow from about 5000 meters all the way to the top, but now I think the first glacier started at about 5250 meters.



I had been sick 2 times before this climb and was out of shape, so it was actually quite hard for me to get up to the top even at slow pace. Right after the climb I got sick for the 3rd time, and then once more. The route presented some little difficulties on rock. It is much easier if covered with a lot of snow. The steepest parts on the upper glacier might have been 40 degrees which is nice.





The snow was of good quality. It was more firm than soft, but not icy. I was really glad that all 4 of us made it to the top. We were at home 13 hours after leaving.