A climb in the Hampaturi

On 1st of July I left at 5.30 in the morning for Hampaturi. I wanted to see if I could climb a pretty much unknown 5500 meter peak. It is between Serkhe Kollu and Hati Kollu. While there is some information on Serkhe and Hati (I have climbed both), this peak has nothing, not even a name, it seems, but according to Google Earth it's at least 5520 meters high. I was not sure if it had ever been climbed.

There are two ways to get there: The "road" that goes to Serkhe, or the "road" that goes towards Hati. From the road to Hati it would be at least 6km to this hidden peak's glacier, and from Google Earth I could not be sure if it was a walking path or a driveable path that goes there. It would have been a good idea to take a mountain bike ride there to find out. So I chose the road that I knew, the one that goes towards Serkhe Kollu.

It was cloudy in La Paz, and higher in the mountains it snowed. During the approach it snowed and the peaks over me were covered in fog. It was a very bad day for July, since it's almost always clear in June and July.

Longer story short: I got to a gully that had a wide but very thin ice fall right next to it at about 5400 meters. The ice was falling apart, and at least once every minute there was some ice coming down, but luckily in very small pieces.This was the sunny side, and there was a break in the clouds, so the wall heated up.  I had to do some rock climbing, but eventually the slick, wet and steep rock was too much. I was about 6 meters from what I think was a narrow snow slope leading to the summit, but I had to go down.

I traversed to another gully more to the southwest, and began going up again from 5220 meters. Eventually at 5420 meters I got to the ridge, and on both sides there was a peak. I went to the first one which was 5470 meters, and then the other that was 5484 meters. From there I could see that there was what looked like a cairn at the top of the peak that I initially wanted to climb. So it looks like it has been climbed before. When I saw that, I wasn't really so interested in finding out if I could have made it to that peak from where I was.